Collection: SHIRTS FOR MEN

Shirts For Men

The History Of Men’s Shirts In A Snapshot

The Origin of men’s shirts (16th & 17th Century)

Men’s shirts initially served as loose- fitting undergarments and were made from linen or wool. They provided a layer (body odour and friction) between the wearer’s body and the robes adorned by men in those years. Over time they moved from a hidden layer to men’s shirts as we see them today

 The 18th Century

Shirts went through a huge transformation into symbols of status. Ruffles and pleats on the fronts and puffed  demonstrated the wearer's social importance. From cotton and linen fabrics this century saw the advent of Silk – traded from India and China

Onwards To The 19th Century

With industrialization came the need for office wear. In this period men’s shirts saw tremendous design changes like styling of collars and cuffs, different cuts and fits and the availability of finer fabrics. With the demand for office shirts came the need for manufacturing technology. This era saw the mushrooming of the ready to wear shirts being made in large factories with technology being used for manufacturing, quality control and a focus on durability. Especially on the fusing of cuffs and collars, sewing strength, fastening of buttons and most importantly fabrics that withstood the test of time. 

How To Spot A Premium Quality Men’s Shirt Today?

Look For The Fabric Used To Make The Shirt:

100% cotton is just the base or entry level qualification. If you are looking for luxury please seek qualities like 2 ply, mercerized cotton and Egyptian Giza cotton. For linen check for the origin of the Flax used to weave the fabric- what you want is linen woven from European Flax which is the gold standard

Collar & Cuffs

Poor quality men’s shirt are symptomatic of cuffs & collars that resemble “poppadums” after a few washes. Here is where you want reassurances on the quality of lining and fusing used before you buy.

Nothing beats German materials.

Buttons Tell A Story

Unfortunately plastic buttons are the norm because they are a great way for manufacturers to cut cost. For formal men’s shirts insist on genuine, Mother Of Pearl buttons that have luster and feel great to the touch.

Button holes –A Small Detail But Of Great Importance

For the button hole to not become bloated after repeated buttoning and unbuttoning the manufacturer has to ensure that they used 120 stitches per inch. This ensures the button hole reverts to narrow eye.

Thread & Stitching

Almost invisible stitching is another hallmark of great shirt craftsmanship. You must insist on 21 stitches per inch on your formal men’s shirt.

Deeper Back Yoke

Most shirt manufacturers compromise on the area under the back of you neck up to the shoulder called the back yoke. It saves a lot of fabric and cuts cost. Opt for a shirt with a deeper back yoke for ease of stretching your arms comfortably while driving or reaching for something.  

It Is All About The Fit:

You need to be comfortable in your shirt because you would sport it for at least 8-10 hours. A very lean frame warrants a slim fit which is cut to fit your silhouette. For those who like a slightly, fitted shirt a tailored fit would be suitable. While these shirts are cut close to your body, they offer room to move without being too loose. They are usually styled with a hem placket and have a round-cut bottom. However, most people opt for a regular or classic fit. These shirts are cut generously and offer maximum room and are styled with a classic placket and have a straight-cut bottom.

Finally – The Most Critical: Brand Reputation: Ask - how many years has the brand you are planning to buy has been around? What is their defective replacement policy? And the grand finale is …will this shirt be available on a discount/ promo/ price off in a few weeks.  Brands that don’t go on discount or offer freebies ensure they provide customers with value to justify the price paid – the all important “price benefit relationship”.  Discounters will finally have to compromise on quality to be able to sell at lower prices

Background On Fabrics That Make Men’s Shirts Special

Fibres in each classification come from different botanical plants.

ZODIAC Makes Men’s Shirts In Egyptian Giza Cotton Woven From Extra Long Staple (ELS) Cotton

ELS cotton fibres are extra-long and fabric woven from this is very smooth and silky. It is luminescent and absorbs colour beautifully  and retains the colour vibrancy naturally over a period of time. It also gets softer and softer with each wash.

What is Egyptian Giza cotton?  Why Is it Called The Queen Of Cotton?

Egyptian Giza cotton comes from a place called Giza in Egypt, where the River Nile would flood. As a result, the soil is rich, and ideal for growing cotton of different types, all of which is “long staple”. Cultivated in the hot desert-like climatic conditions, specifically in the Nile delta, known for its fertile soil these cotton fibres are exceptionally long and fine. 

ZODIAC uses a specific variety of Egyptian Giza Cotton which is extra-long staple (> 35mm in fiber length) which offers superior softness, a silk-like texture and higher durability compared to standard Egyptian cotton. 

Giza cotton know as the Queen Of Cotton, is hand-harvested. This manual, labour intensive process is crucial for ensuring the Extra Long Staple fibres are not damaged or stressed, which could occur with mechanical harvesting. ZODIAC then gives this ELS Egyptian Giza cotton a special “Silk Protein Finish” that enhances the silk touch hand feel of this fabric.

ZODIAC Makes Men’s Shirts In Long Staple, Mercerized, Two Ply Cotton

What Is Long Staple Cotton?

Cotton fibres that are significantly longer than short and medium staple. The fabric woven from long staple cotton is very light weight, has inherent sheen and softness and also gets softer with every wash. The ability of this fabric to reflect and retain colour and sheen over a period of time is exemplary.

What Is Two Ply Cotton?

“Ply” in fabric refers to the number of individual yarn strands twisted together to create a single, stronger thread used for weaving When two threads are twisted to make one compact thread for weaving ­fabric it is called two ply. These fabrics are softer and more luxurious and shirts made from two ply cotton fabric provide the wearer  a fabulous drape and fall

What Is Mercerization? 

A specialized treatment that gives fabric a smoother, stronger more lustrous hand feel.. It also enhances the fabric’s ability absorption of colours and gives remarkable strength to the fibres thereby enhancing the life of the shirt

ZODIAC Also Uses Superfine Cotton To Make Men’s Shirts

What is Superfine cotton?

Fabric woven from ultra fine, single-ply yarn spun from long-staple superfine, lightweight cotton in counts of 60’s and 70’s. Yarn count is a numerical expression defining the fineness or coarseness of a yarn, indicating its linear density (length per unit weight or vice versa). Higher numbers mean finer yarn This fabric is specially treated for a luxurious hand feel and high crease recovery. Keeps you looking crisp all day due to high crease recovery due to the long-staple cotton used in weaving this fabric.

ZODIAC Crafts It’s Linen Shirts From European Flax Linen

Where does Linen come from? What is Flax?

Explanation - Flax is a super-useful plant with pretty blue flowers that gives us two main things: tiny, healthy seeds (flaxseeds/Alashi) to eat for energy, and strong, stiff fibers in its stems that are used to weave a breathable fabric called Linen

Why European Flax?

The best flax for high-quality linen fibre grows in the cool, temperate oceanic climate of Western Europe, specifically in a coastal belt stretching from southern Normandy in France through Belgium and the Netherlands. It is hand harvested by farmers who possess generations of expertise in growing flax and carefully processed to preserve its long fibres. These long fibres create linen fabric that is more luxurious to the touch, has more body thereby providing a naturally elegant drape and is less likely to fray, making the shirt longer lasting and more durable.

Why Linen? It offers unmatched breathability & comfort as its porous, hollow fibers promote airflow, allowing heat to escape and preventing the fabric from sticking to your skin in humid conditions.

Perfect for summer & warm weather as it is highly absorbent and dries quickly, wicking away moisture to keep you cool.

Being Hypoallergenic and Anti bacterial it is ideal for sensitive skin

Linen is known to one of the  strongest natural fibers with a Tencel strength far higher than cotton.

What Is Genuine Mother Of Pearl? Why Does ZODIAC Use Them On It’s Premium Range Of Men’s Shirts.

 Mother-of- pearl, known as “nacre” is 14th-century French term. It is the shell formed by the secretion of oysters and freshwater pearl mollusks. The inner part of the shell is iridescent, smooth and has rainbow –like glisten. Being a natural material no 2 shells will be are alike. The colour of this surface is rainbow – like because it changes based on how it catches light falling when viewed from different angles. Mother-of- pearl is prized material with jewellery and watch manufacturers. However being wafer-thin and brittle only highly skilled artisans can handle the shaping for use.

All ZODIAC’s premium men’s shirts are embellished with trademark, genuine mother of pearl,  - hole buttons. The hand feel, luminosity and luster of these button’s is unmatched and imparts a luxury hand feel to the wearer. 

 What Else Goes In To The Making Of ZODIAC Men’s Shirts.

 Craftsmanship: An unmatched 21 stitches per inch for an almost invisible stitch line and maximum strength. Our buttonholes get 120 stitches per inch - almost double the industry standard. Our shirts have a deeper back yoke for a more comfortable drape. We offer 3 fits to suit diverse body types – Classic, Tailored and Slim.

Collars & Cuffs: We offer single and double cuffs, both detailed with the finest German interlinings. All our single cuff shirts come with 2 buttonholes to enable the use of cufflinks. We offer Kent, Cutaway, Contrast, Button Down and the stylish Mandarin or Band collar as options.

Men’s Shirts: What Is A Bespoke Men’s Shirt

What Is The Difference Between Bespoke, Made To Measure

& Made To Order Shirts

 MTO The Process: You select a stock model (e.g., a size 40 shirt) or submit a sample of your choice. Choose your preferred fabric.

The Fit: Standard factory sizing with minor modifications to your body.

Customization: You can choose collar, cuff, fitting, pocket styles and fabric. In fact, it is almost limitless.

Timeline & Cost: The fastest turnaround (usually 2 weeks) and the most affordable custom option

Made-To-Measure (MTM) & Bespoke REGALE 

MTM Process: The master tailor takes your measurements or you can submit a sample that you feel fits you well.

Bespoke Process:  The word literally means the cloth has been spoken for.

In both cases a master tailor from ZODIAC drafts a completely unique paper pattern from scratch just for the customer. This numbered and stored with the company. 

The Fit: Exceptional. Because the garment is created around your individual anatomy, it feels natural, accounts for imbalances, and drapes cleanly.

High Degree Of Customization: You can choose collar, cuff, fitting, pocket styles and a selection of the finest fabrics from across the world. Your REGALE shirt can be monogrammed with your initials on the cuff, chest or pocket. In fact, customization is almost limitless.

Timeline & Cost: Moderate. Usually takes 4 – 8 weeks because it involves customer approval of a prototype shirt in regular fabric before his final REGALE is created.

MTM & Bespoke is far more expensive than MTO.

REGALE by ZODIAC: A Bespoke & MTM Men’s Shirt Program Like No Other

Created for clothing connoisseurs who demand quite luxury that is not something simply selected off a shelf. A range of individually numbered, limited edition, custom made, men’s shirts of the highest quality.

Regale By ZODIAC offers very a high degree of customization wherein the customer has total control over all aspects of his shirt. Fabric, fit, style, cuffs & collars are all customizable.

Only The Very Best Fabrics From Across The Globe:

Sea Island Cotton

Probably the rarest and world’s most sought-after cotton you can buy. This cotton comes from the botanical plant “Gossypium Barbadense” and can be grown to perfection only in the unique climatic conditions of the Caribbean Island states.

What makes this fabric so rare & coveted is that the entire annual produce of Sea Island Cotton grown is just over 70 bales (0.004% of the cotton produced worldwide each year), which is then auctioned to the mills that bid the highest.

The finest Italian weavers like Albini & Canclini  snap up this produce and then allot the very limited quantities of fabric to renowned clothing brands across the globe, based on their heritage & ability to craft this rare cotton into exquisite shirts with an aura of effortless elegance. ZODIAC is one of the few brands in the world to offer Bespoke men’s shirts & Made To Measure men’s shirts in Sea Island Cotton.

Giza 45 Extra Long Staple Egyptian Cotton

 “The Queen Of Cottons”

This grade of Giza 45 is very rare because it forms less than 0.5% of Egypt's annual cotton production. It features exceptionally long staple (up to 36 mm), fine fibers that create luxurious, durable fabrics used in high-end premium shirts

This grade of cotton originates from Giza in the fertile Nile Delta in where the unique nutrient rich soil, desert like summers that are dry and hot coupled with the water of the Nile River produce cotton buds which have extra long staple length. The crop is harvested and sent to crème de la crème Italian mills like Albini & Canclini member the higher the number, the finer the yarn and therefore the finer the fabric.

Italian Woven Linen

Crafted From Flax Grown in Europe.

The unique soil & climatic conditions of this region coupled with generations of expertise inherited by the local farmers result long staple Flax fibers from this region are known to be the very best in the world because of their remarkable fibre length which results in a Line fabric that has an exceptional fall and drape despite being of a very high count. The extra long staple Flax fibre is woven into linen fabric by Italian luxury fabric manufacturers like Albini & Canclini.

About REGALE By ZODIAC

After the customer has selected a fabric, a fit and styling ZODIAC makes a prototype for approval. After the fit is confirmed the creation of a Regale men’s shirt begins.

Every Regale shirt is produced individually and is meticulously crafted over a period of 30 days. Embellished with 14 ligne mother of pearl three hole genuine Mother Of Pearl buttons.

Collars & cuffs are crafted from German Interlining. Detachable collar bones made is stainless steel collars look keep the collars in place. Finally a unique level of personalization is added to the initials being embroidered. All Regale shirts are serially numbered on the button placket along with the customers name and/or the occasion it was made for.

The Legendary ZODIAC Craftsmanship & Quality

Steeped in shirt-making expertise that spans over 7 decades, ZODIAC’s Bespoke & MTM men’s shirt program Regale is an ode to those who wish to experience the pinnacle of custom made shirts.